Tag Archives: Hiking for Life

Foot washing, a Sunday school lesson

She hikes. In sandals. She can’t get her hiking boots on anymore and she hasn’t found a suitable new pair. But she does have a new pair of sandals – with fresh tread – in the box on her closet shelf. Waiting for next season. End of summer sale. The wise woman is always prepared. She also bought a couple new pairs of wool socks – smart ones. Until the snow flies, her sandals will do just fine. Besides, with sandals you can walk right in and through the creek and keep moving forward. Well, if it’s a cool morning, you might want to stop and take off your wool socks first before you walk through the water so you can put them on warm and dry later.

With the right kind of sandals, one is always prepared. One can hike or walk or fish or kayak. One can shove a kayak off from the beach or drag a kayak back from the beach, right through the sand or mud or pooling water. When one wears sandals, she can rise in the morning and bathe and do her toenails after she straps on her sandals and go hike while her pedicure is drying. Sandals are so versatile they go with her shorts, her skirt, her tunic or her maxi-dress. 

So it was that she rose on a typical Tuesday morning, made a quick toilette, pulled on her hiking clothes and sandals and took a four-mile hike to the Lion’s Den and back. The trail is well used by walkers, runners and bicyclists. It is quite dusty, though not unbearably hot this time of year. She strode through brush and trees at a good pace, gained 22 floors in elevation, stopped to enjoy the colors of the changing season, and met a masked art class spread out on the trail and sketching. She returned home having passed only a handful of bikers and joggers because it was nearing midday. “Whoof,” she said pulling off her socks and shaking them. She stepped into the bathtub and rinsed off her legs -the final twelve inches from calve down to the dirty feet. She shook her head and smiled wryly to herself.  And they actually had to explain the practice and purpose of foot-washing to us in Sunday School when we were kids? I’m telling you, we must have been a pack of nature deprived and trail starved baby boomers growing up. But look at us now! Bicycles. Kayaks. Running shoes. Tents. Campers. Motorhomes. – and foot washing. We’re making up for lost time. 

Sandaled feet in clear river water

I’d Rather Cry at Beauty, Than to Cry at Ugly

That’s the trouble with getting outside, it’s as bad a reading a good book. It’s dangerous. It fills you with longing. But at some point, getting outside or reading a good book also fills the longing.

I’d rather go hiking than pay for 50 minutes of therapy.

Either way, the first 45 minutes consist of working through stress and with hiking you usually get a bonus hour or two of enjoyment after that.

Sometimes, when I go hiking, I am so overcome by the beauty of my surroundings that it makes me weep. Sometimes, when I go hiking, my thoughts are so deep they make me weep. Sometimes, when I make music – or hear music – it makes me weep with the sheer beauty of it all.

But I’d rather cry at beauty, than to cry at ugly.

A couple weeks ago I staffed an outdoor event for a weekend in Escalante. On the way home, I stopped at a public piano in Tropic, pulled out the chair and proceeded to play my heart out for about 10 minutes. A woman of my generation – a gracefully aging flower child – sat on the park bench close by and applauded encouragingly.

When I had done and went inside the market to purchase a snack, the woman found me and engaged in conversation. She was touched by the beauty of music and confessed to videoing my mini concert – seemed to ask permission. We talked about beauty – the unexpected beauty of music in surprising places – the beauty of the world and her habit of picking up ten pieces of trash each day – the beauty of the souls who had allowed her to sleep in her car in their parking lot overnight.

We exited the door together and as I cut diagonally toward my waiting auto I heard her squeal of delight at discovering a large praying mantis. It was indeed a magical day. But what happened next was ugly. A large overall-clad man (Overalls on a Sunday morning – so don’t blame the Mormons for what I am about to relate) descended from his big truck and called, “What is it?”

“A praying mantis,” she replied in wonder.

“Well, step on it!” he snapped, “they don’t do anybody any good.”

I know this is not true. I have also learned that I am not called to set the whole world straight; to backtrack 30 feet across parking lots to be a know-it-all because of something I overheard. All the same, I felt guilty about abandoning that lovely hippie to the ugliness of yet another stranger.

Subdued, I continued miles on down the road, contemplating. I hung a left into Bryce Canyon City and on into a park where natural beauty and wildlife are respected and protected. I took a hike – a long hike – and my spirit was restored.

I would so much rather cry at beauty than at ugly.

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It is hard to miss; Part 2: Willis Creek

Willis Creek

She stood in the shade by a small desert creek to refresh herself and prepare her mind for a return hike of the 10 miles she had just completed. Again, she checked the vehicle for signs the guys had been there. Vacant. She left signs of her own presence. A bandana tied to the luggage rack – in case they were also looking for her.

She knew exactly where she and her hiking partner had overshot the return trail. What she could not figure out was where they had bypassed the guys. If they were not waiting at the vehicle, they should have intersected two miles ago. Her hiking partner was convinced the guys were out looking for them.

In her mind she reviewed the information gained from the internet previous to setting out on the trip: Nice family hike. Under six miles. Hard to miss because the trail goes straight down a slot canyon. Five miles round-trip to the end and back. Approximate travel time: 2.5 hours. It had been four hours.

In the beginning, the girls had no intention of splitting off from the guys. Five people, journalists of varying degrees, began the hike together that day. They met a couple hours after dawn, packed into a Jeep like sardines, and jostled two hours up a dirt road to the trailhead, stopping to search out geological features along the way. Arriving at Willis Creek Trailhead, they began the hike in leisurely fashion, taking time to savor the illumination of morning sun on sandstone and to luxuriate in reflections of shadowed pools. Two of the guys were photojournalists. They carried the gear necessary to their art and wielded it for photo ops both posed and candid. A mile and a half into the hike, the girls – both avid hikers – began to move ahead by increasing distances. Hunger sat in. They found an inviting log at a place where the canyon widened. They sat for several minutes killing time in conversation and nourishment. Still no guys. They looked and listened up the canyon. Still no sign of the guys. Her hiking partner helloed and yahooed up the canyon. No response but an echo. So the girls pressed ahead through the ever-widening canyon, walking mostly on soft sand of a creek bed. After a mile of wide creek bed and still no sign of the guys catching up, the girls reversed their route and headed back. They followed the creek. They met no one. They noticed a picturesque tree fallen across the creek. Was that there before? Perhaps we walked under it without noticing. They found fresh desert bighorn tracks in the mud. Very fresh. We did not see those on the way. Soon she said to her hiking partner, “We should be in the slot by now.”

“Did we take a wrong canyon?”

“How is that possible? We have followed the creek all the way back. Let’s just go around this next bend and see what we find.” They did. They found a fence.

“I am sure,” she said, “we could follow this canyon on the left and end up just above the parking lot. But we don’t know the condition of this canyon, there may a dry fall too deep to scale, and we don’t want to miss the guys.”

“Do you think they are searching for us by now?”

Accordingly, they made a 180 and retraced their steps. Looking, always looking to the right for the turn they somehow missed. Presently, the telltale signs of plodding hardship began.

Her: I didn’t bring matches.

She: I have matches.

A quarter mile further.

Her: I don’t want to spend the night in a canyon.

She: The sun is still high.

Another quarter mile.

Her: I didn’t pack that blanket.

She: I have a space blanket (and a headlamp, and paracord, and a whistle, and a windbreaker, and snacks and tissues and two bandanas and a tiny first aid kit. I think I packed too much).

Another mile, another biographical conversation. The girls were getting to know each other better.

Her: Look! There’s the log where we ate lunch.

She: Good grief, how could I have missed it? I didn’t realize we took a sharp turn into Sheep Creek just as we stopped to eat lunch!

No time to lose now. Surely the guys must be up ahead, waiting impatiently. The girls hurried to catch them.

The girls arrived at the Jeep. No guys. No evidence the guys had even been there. Exhausted, the girls propped hiking poles against the door of the Jeep and found a shady place to rest just over a small hill.

Twenty minutes later, while she was still debating going after them, the guys strolled into the parking lot.

“Where were you?” They asked. “How did you make it back before we did? We followed footprints about a mile down Sheep Creek until they ended and then we turned back. How did we not see you?”

The guys had made a leisurely time of it, poking up side canyons to find just the right photo angle, dawdling in the dappled light of photogenic vegetation to catch close-ups. All the while expecting to meet up with the girls at any moment.

She pulled out a phone and checked her mileage: Ten miles.

He checked his: Six miles.

The girls had out-stripped the guys by four miles simply by missing a turn into Willis Creek. Instead, they headed on up Sheep Creek. 10 miles! Not bad, not bad at all for two girls in their 60s.

Yes, it’s hard to miss, but you can do it!

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Hiking is good for what ails you

Take a hike, it’s good for what ails you. Especially if what ails you is stress, depression, anxiety, tension, panic, frustration.

Take a hike. Walk until you see something that makes you smile. Something pristine and natural like a mallard duck lifting off from a lake. Something wild like a fox never deviating off course – ignoring your presence. Something comforting like a fawn in the forest or quail noisily gathering their chicks, or a lizard zipping away from your shadow.

Keep hiking until it becomes clear exactly what it is that is eating you or whom you blame for your issue. Work it out with each step. Talk it out aloud to the wilderness. Keep going. Keep putting one foot in front of the other until your brain has stopped complaining and started feeling grateful. Press forward until you reach that crucial moment when you throw your hands in the air and shout “Thank You!” Then, and only then is it time to head back to your point of origin. You are now healed – at least for another hour, another day. Taken daily, this remedy will go miles toward keeping you balanced and healthy. Healthy in mind and soul as well as body. There is hope. Hope that you will be cured of your anxiety.

This remedy may also be found packaged under any of the following labels: bicycling, running, swimming, kayaking. Parent company: Exercise in the great outdoors.

One word of caution: hiking is addictive. You may find it necessary to walk further and further into the wilderness to effect a change in your emotional and mental well-being. But, dear friends, can you think of a better remedy with fewer negative side effects?

Hear me now, there are times when you feel like you are going to die. Your chest constricts. It is hard to breathe from the stress. The tension is mounting in your shoulders and around the base of your neck. Or perhaps embarrassment has joined with anxiety so that you feel as if you want to die. When you feel like you want to die – or when you feel that you are going to die; you must, you must get out of doors and take the cure immediately. Why? Because your last goal, the last thing on your bucket list is to die in a beautiful place. Remove yourself to a beautiful place immediately to position yourself to achieve that goal. Who knows? You may recover instantly. It has happened to me time and time before.

Ideas other have suggested as remedies for panic attack caused by anxiety or depression: Now I ask you, cannot all these be accomplished via a good hike?

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When Sunday restores the soul

Do you take a regular day off each week? One out of seven? Two out of seven? What do you do with that day off, totally off?

I grew up in a home that went beyond luxuriating in Sunday as a day of relaxation. My family of origin enforced Sunday as a day of rest. No sports. No games. No reading of secular material. Just attendance at Sunday School and Church, preparation and cleanup of a large family meal. Yes, Sunday was an enforced day of rest and as such, a day marked by ennui, often headachy, making me squirm with a longing to get something done.

These days I am still prone to that extreme of getting something done. There are always things that somebody has got to do. If I don’t do them, who will? I am guilty of checking things off the list at the expense of not taking a day – not even one of seven – for rest. My soul shrivels. My vision is constricted.

My spirits were on the brink of shriveling when I woke in a motel room, 200 miles from home, having successfully completed a vendor fair the evening before. Nothing to do? No excuse for not taking a day of rest.

Posey Lake is 18 miles up the Hell’s Backbone Road from Escalante. It was mid-September and the colors, oh the colors, were glorious!

IMG_2379poseylakeOnce I got to the lake, I sat on the boat dock for some minutes, just wasting time. Then, I did the logical thing and took a hike all the way around the lake, startling myself and cattle along the way. Once on the other side, I noticed a trail leading to a lookout. However steep, who can resist a trail? A trail leading to a CCC built fire lookout in Dixie National Forest? Even more delectable.

At first, I took only pictures. The aspens and the conifers were ravishingly colorful.

IMG_2384tallredaspenThen, a few more paces along the trail and I began to shed the layers of photographer, writer, or analytical business woman. With wild abandon, I went on a tree-hugging spree. I sniffed out a Ponderosa (searching for that faint vanilla). I hugged the ponderosa. Then I hugged an aspen. Then a very young blue spruce. And finally I ended up in the arms of an Englemann.

And, at the top, at the lookout, I found an entire colorful panorama stretching for hundreds of miles.

It was Sunday. I had a day off. A day to relax. A day for spiritual renewal. I went further up the mountain.

And my soul, o my soul, was refreshed

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I almost forgot to walk

Loosing one’s memory is a possibility we approach with trepidation. We want to keep our memories – the good ones, anyway – as long as possible. Proper exercise, we are told, is one of the actions we can take to combat the onslaught of loosing as we age. Besides the practical advantages of exercise; I love a hike in the great outdoors. Nothing restores me better.

I was traveling for work again. Calling on the far flung stores. Face to facing with staff. Hearing their needs and concerns. Delivering new interpretive merchandise.

It is monsoon season, so I was taking the long way around. Part of the road on my favorite commute has washed out, but a good portion of the long route lies up Scenic Highway 12, so there is no lack of beauty.

As I neared the trailhead for Mossy Cave, I slowed, noted the full parking lot, checked my watch and hurried forward to Cannonville and Escalante. I did take time to fill the gasoline tank in Tropic and to take an arpeggiatic run on the piano in front of Clark’s – but I did this standing up – without alighting on the piano stool.

By lunchtime I was finished with Cannonville. A couple hours spent at Escalante and I was on the return road by 3:30 pm my time (4:30 local). “How excellent,” I thought, “I will make it home before dark.”

It pains me that I almost forgot to stop. A wakeup call. I frequently drive two hours on a weekend just to get to cooler temperatures and beautiful hiking places. Yet, I almost maintained speed right by one of the most beautiful sections in the state of Utah – in order to make it home before dark. Stress, you know. The to-do list instead of the HooDoo list. Workaholism at its most insidious. Could it be that I am now immune to the magnetism of National Parks?

Just in time I reminded myself that I am not domiciled in Page AZ simply because there is mound after mound of office work to be done. One can find mounds of office work anywhere. I am here specifically for working closely with National Parks and reveling 24 X 7 in beautiful places.

I stopped. I hiked. I was refreshed. My mission is renewed.

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Too Hot To Hike

“It’s so beautiful,” They told me before I moved here. “Think of the lake and the red rocks!” Yes. The desert has its own kind of beauty even to one accustomed to pine trees and aspens. Undeniably such a large volume of water right in the midst of the desert is a thing of wonder. It is beautiful. But it is hot. So hot that a coveted morning hike turns into merely a walk that must be taken before 6:00 am. So rocky and barren I must drive an hour or two to find a shady canyon in which to stretch my legs on the weekend.

What do you do to pick yourself up when you are down? When you are blue, how do you make yourself feel better? If you are agitated, how do you calm yourself? How do you engage in self care – manage your mental and emotional health?

Making ourselves feel better is how we cope. What is your coping mechanism? Do you gravitate toward a crowd? Have a cigarette? Music? Sex? What makes you feel all better? How we cope can become an addition. Who doesn’t want to feel better all the time? I do. So when I feel myself ready to drop into that downward spiral, I walk. I run out the door and hit the trail. But it is hot. Too hot to hike.

Having once discovered the piñon-pine forests of Navajo National Monument (established 1909), I returned again to hike all the short trails and snap more photos. The most popular of the short trails will take you to an overlook from which you can see Betakin in the distance. A second trail descends down the side of an inverted mountain. Beginning at 7,000 feet, the inverted mountain goes down, down to where the canyon floor hosts similar flora to that normally found high up a mountainside – an aspen forest and conifer trees. It was cooler here and with a more regular source of moisture. It has to be to grow aspen trees. This type of canyon is situated such that parts of it never see the sun. So narrow one of the sides is always in the shade. The snow is slow to melt.

And suddenly, I knew the answer to the oft asked question as to why the Anasazi were cliff dwellers rather than living up top where it appears life would have been easier-less precipitous. And now, I understand why certain folks mourn the loss of Glen Canyon as was, and want to drain Lake Powell.

It is too hot to hike – except in lush, deep, narrow canyons.

Betakin at Navajo National Monument
Betakin at Navajo National Monument

Inverted mountain
Inverted mountain

Unexpectedly, a much-desired, long Saturday hike

I worked on Saturday. It was not my sixth day of work because I did have actual Fourth of July off.

I seized an opportunity to take our customer service specialist, Brandice, and make a Cannonville / Escalante delivery and introduce her around. For efficiency and beauty, we took Cottonwood Canyon Road full-well knowing we would probably need to return via the highway due to gathering clouds.

It rained while we were in Escalante. But when we returned through Cannonville, the skies, ground and roadways were dry and there was a sunny path of blue sky down Cottonwood Canyon. Knowing from experience it would put us home 40 minutes earlier, we took it.

To give some perspective, Google says it is 160 miles Page to Cannonville via the paved highway and 46 miles via Cottonwood Canyon – albeit slow going and winding dirt road.

We exited the paved road south of Cannonville at Kodachrome State Park and proceeded 18 more miles to pass the turnoff for Grosvenor Arch. So far, so good. A couple raindrops hit the windshield. Bear in mind, we are already more than 20 miles in for a trip we believe is 46 slow miles – oh wait – now they tell me it is 56 miles – from Grosvenor to highway 89. Anyway, we went UP the washboardy hills and UP more washboardy hills and then descended into an area nick-named “Candyland” because of the colorful rock formations. It was beautiful. But then, the descent down the slightly rained on slope was slick. Moreover, it stuck to the new tires like clay, making them perform like bald tires. We slid sideways in the 15 – passenger van. There was a slight but muddy ravine on our right. Enough! We knew we would have to stop and wait this out. Typically the road dries out fast – by the next day. It was six pm. We were expected home.

When it stopped raining, I climbed to the top of the nearest steep and muddy hill until I got one bar of cell service. I texted the boss. No immediate answer. I called the boss. He picked up on the fourth ring. Can you back up north? He asked. No. The dark rain clouds had now cut us off behind.

I’d love to say I’ll be there in 90 minutes, he said, but I am at Antelope Point (ten miles the other side of town) and I’ll have to go by home and get my rescue equipment.

Can you call Brandice’s husband and let him know? I asked. Affirmative. Text me the phone number.

Brandice shouted me the number from the distant van. I slid back down the hill and we enjoyed a nice tailgate repast of veggies, fruit and guac. I hiked back up the hill to see if there were further messages. Nada. But, the road looked pretty good from that vantage point. While I was hiking, Brandice had been busy peeling mud from the tires with a sharp rock. We began inching our way down the road in 200-yard segments. Here is how it worked:

I ran ahead to reconnoiter and then signal Brandice forward to a specific place. As she drew near, I ran ahead once more to see if all was safe around the corner. In this way, we avoided sinkholes and slippery narrow slopes. Sometimes we waited 15 or 20 minutes for the road to dry out.

Meanwhile, the boss texted his location. He was now on the dirt road. His pathway was dry. For several miles. Then he hit the muddy, fish-tailing mid-section.

By the time the Martins came over the hill we had made a few miles progress in the van. Yes. Martin plural. When the boss Martin met us, who should pop out his passenger door but Martin the husband of Brandice? Two shovels and a garden hoe made quick work of clay removal from the tires.

Being the grown-up boy scout, WFR and general all around MacGyver that he is, the boss leap-frogged van and Trooper through the sketchy places while I picked up slack on the passable. We made it home by 10:00 pm.

Aside from the embarrassment of having to call for help, I had a fabulous adventure in a beautiful place. You see, the clouds and rain made it a glorious temperature for hiking – up the hill for a cell signal and up and down the road for blazing a trail – in one of the most beautiful places of this region.

Unexpectedly, I got my much-desired, long Saturday hike.

But, still and all, I have a new rule for myself: No dirt road driving when there is rain anywhere in the state. – – Until we get knobbier tires on the van.

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What is Real?

She lounged on one queen-size bed in the rustic motel room and stared at the ceiling. “Tomorrow we go back to the real world,” she sighed.

“What is real?” I said, echoing the plaintive question of the velveteen rabbit. For 48 hours we had hiked in nature. Ten miles on Saturday. Ten miles again on Sunday. Not bad for two women over 60. Was that not real? Was it not intensely real that first day when I summited the canyon toward the ruin, feeling famished and hungry and ready to break into my lunch in the shadow of ancient dwellings, only to turn and see that she had fallen 50 yards behind; short of breath, cold and clammy and at the same time hot and sweaty. She sat to rest and I had nothing to offer her but water – which she also carried. We soaked a bandana and mopped her face. That was real. So real that we altered our plans for the next day to take a less strenuous – but equally long-trail.

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Was it not real thrashing through the undergrowth, hair and glasses and arms snagged in unwelcoming branches, just to find a secluded place to relieve myself? Earthy smells. Musty leaves, damp creek beds, cottonwoods, pinyon pines and junipers. These are not real? Blue skies and biting winds and being thankful for a hiking partner because there are places in Bullet Canyon you simply cannot boost yourself when you are 5’3” or even 5’7.”

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“Is this the real world, or is it fantasy?” For two days we saw no one but the occasional avid hiker. For each other we acted as human hand rails, pushed, pulled and otherwise offered a hand; shuttled back packs, assisted in withdrawing snacks from top zippered compartments and intentionally went looking for solitude and beauty.

BEAR'S EARS - THE EARS THEMSELVES. March, 2017
BEAR’S EARS – THE EARS THEMSELVES. March, 2017

Cedar Mesa, The Bears Ears; this was the real world for the ancient ones. The place they raised their children, ground their food, set a look-out, struggled each day to provide and survive. And the struggle was real. Yet, for us, it is a place of restoration – her favorite place to get away on vacation.

Tomorrow we go back to the real world. Out of necessity we spend our days at the office. In the city. In a place where we struggle each day to provide and survive. We set a lookout for intruders and competitors. We perceive our real world as the world of a more advanced civilization, yet when we get away we escape to a more primitive world.

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Two real worlds with the challenge of survival and provision and protection in common, is there not more to ponder? Is it a real world without Nature? Without Art? Without Music? Without relationships? We go beyond mere survival.

We build. We communicate. We make art. A very real world, indeed!

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Two headlamps is always a good idea

4:48 pm

Without slacking my pace I turned and headed back up the wash the way I had come. I was at least an hour out from the car and the sun would set before six. Twenty-five minutes later I arrived at the spot where I first said, “Just one more bend, I’ll just go around one more bend and see what’s up ahead. We wouldn’t want to turn back now, Self, when there might be a lake inlet just around the bend.”

It was Super Hike Sunday and I started my hike late, very late, after lunching with friends. Once I circumvented the white pothole pour-off via the mini-talus slopes, I set off at a good clip down the level wash that is Wire Grass Trail. I wanted to hike until I saw something beautiful, until I felt good, until I was winded, until I no longer felt fat from lunch and the many desserts I have comforted myself with this week.

I did see something beautiful. An arch. I interrupted my momentum only long enough to take a picture. More beauty. I wanted more. I began to feel good again. I never did get winded so I kept on, chasing the sunlight and then chasing the shadow, always, always aware of where the sun was on the horizon.

At 5:58 pm  on my return trip I reached the slope where I first clocked the sun at 3:45 pm to gauge if I really had time to do the hike. That was the moment I realized I needed two headlamps. I know, I know, one should be enough, but I have been using my headlamp for early morning walks and I left it setting on the table when I shouldered my daypack; that daypack where the headlamp should -and usually does-reside. Knowing that it is still too early in the year to get much daylight after 4:00 pm, I thought to turn back near the beginning of the trailhead when I first realized my headlamp was home in the kitchen. But I also knew I carried a small flashlight tucked into the first aid kit.

6:03 pm said my cell phone when I arrived at the car. The sun was down, yet still remained the daylight. Whew! It’s not that I am afraid of the dark, I’m just afraid of feeling helpless, afraid of causing someone the bother of coming to find me. I am feeling fine. My toes are sore. My biceps ache from swinging my hiking poles, but I am not winded. It’s going to be a great spring for hiking! For putting one foot in front of the other; for not slackening my pace. How about you?

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